Ida's Entrees by Ida H. McGarity

 

LOTS OF TEMPTING TREATS FOUND AT MEXICAN BAKERY

Part two in a series on new food businesses in town.

When I opened the door at 332 St. George Street, a luscious fresh-baked aroma emerged. Large glass cases of sweets as bright as fiesta dominated the room decorated in red tile and colorful pinatas. Beckoning me closer were trays of sweet breads, rainbow-colored cookies and homemade tortillas. With the welcoming faces of Rick and Delia Ramirez at the counter, I knew I had stumbled upon a jewel - Panaderia El Mercado!

Since it opened on Wednesday, Sept. 29, the Panaderia or Mexican Bakery has just barely kept up with demand, selling 50 Cream Puffs alone on its second and third day. Its specialty is 112 authentic Mexican pastries.

The family has two other bakeries, one in Luling on Highway 183 next to Mr. Taco and one in New Braunfels, where the ovens operate. They hope to expand the facility in Gonzales, with tables and another glass case on the way.

From visiting the Panaderia, I gained a renewed respect for the Mexican imagination. Whether it's armadillos and turtles or bride dresses and pigs, each pastry has a name and history as fascinating as it is tasty. And each time I visit the bakery, I must buy one of every item in the case.

Unlike what you may be used to, Mexican doughs are generally less sweet. Many have just a sprinkling of sugar on the top. Unique stuffings surprise your taste buds - caramel, sweet potato or pumpkin.

Some Mexican treats trace back to the ancient Aztecs, while others have Mexican colonial, Spanish or even French influence. The greatest innovations, though, came from the convent nuns of Puebla, Michoacan and Oaxaca. In the 19th century, women played an important role in preserving and passing down these recipes.

I sensed the pride in speaking with the Ramirez family. Many of Panaderia's pastries represent generations of Mexican tradition and identity.

Rick's family business began in 1951 when his aunt in San Antonio began baking wedding cakes in her home.

"You could always smell the delicious aroma throughout the house, even in the linens," he said.

We are so lucky to have Rick and Delia Ramirez and their Panaderia in Gonzales, making our air just a little sweeter, too.

GUIDE:For those new to Mexican pastries, here's a guide: (I recommend starting with Molletes, Novias, Orejas and Churros.)

  • Pan de Huevo (egg-based bread): Molletes or Conchas. Excellent for breakfast, these breads go way back.
  • Pan Fino (finer bread): Armadillos (armadillos); Tortugas (turtles); Novias (girlfriends), difficult to make, resemble swirls at the bottom of a bride's dress.
  • Orejas (ears) - sweet crisp puff pastry; resemble the palmier cookie of France.
  • Chulas (beautiful), Cuernitos (horn).
  • Ojarascas (Mexican wedding cookies) - round or ring-shaped for weddings. Spices include anise and cinnamon.
  • Sand-tarts (American wedding cookies).
  • Polvorons - pink, chocolate, or white cookies made with lard, coated with sugar crystals.
  • Galleta de Azucar - (Sugar cookies) with raspberries dots.
  • Chamucos - cookies made with two doughs; the center is sweeter.
  • Cadillos - leftover cookie dough with raisins, nuts, cinnamon, etc.
  • Regalos (gift) - sweet cornbread with a sweet potato center.
  • Maranitos - pig-shaped gingerbread.
  • Churros - 10-inch long pastries filled with caramel.
  • Piedras (rocks) - leftover dough from gingerbread combined with coconut, raspberry icing.
  • Campechanas - made in the original way with honey, very crisp, very difficult to make.
  • Apple turn-overs - very popular.
  • Empanadas - sweet potato or pumpkin.
  • Cream puffs - Puff pastry, vanilla custard inside.
  • Pink Cake - distinctive because of the Mexican vanilla in the icing.
  • Pink hearts, Pac man cookies for kids.
  • Pigs in a blanket, donuts.
  • Baras de coco (Mexican candy bars) pumpkin or sweet potato flavors; or Leche quemada (burnt milk) candy - very popular.
  • Semita de Manteca - for diabetics, sugar-free dough with raisins and pecans.
  • Bolillos - small soft French Bread loaves. To make into a Torta: dig out bread, add beans, meat, potatoes or sliced avocados. Popular at the Watermelon Thump and in Mexico.
  • Bunuelos - fried tortillas, sugar, cinnamon.
  • Flour tortillas - fresh daily, no preservatives. Undercooked 1 minute. Put on hot grill to puff as if you made them yourself.
  • El Milagro corn tortillas from Austin. With or without preservatives. The best tasting ones you may ever find.
  • Homemade chips
  • Mexican chocolate for hot chocolate lovers.
  • Maizena - flavored corn starch drink.
  • Tortilla makers, Lava rock Molcajete (mortar and pestle), Mexican Bingo
  • Pinatas for sale from Mexico for birthdays. At Christmas, Pinata stars.

    SOURCE: Panaderia El Mercado Mexican Bakery, 332 St. George St., 672-5458, Wed.-Sun. 7-6.

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